The much-anticipated fourth collection is finally here! Yesterday, Chloë Sevigny debuted her Resort 2012 collection for Opening Ceremony with a runway show staged in an old school gym in Nolita, New York City. Chloë was accompanied to the event by Opening Ceremony founder Humberto Leon, while Jenny Shimizu, Christina Kruse and Heather Marks were among the models walking the runway (as handpicked by Chloë). Check out the first images from the show in our gallery and the full collection on Style.com.
Reports from the runway from Elle.com…
Last night, Chloë Sevigny, who in many ways is the ultimate anti-fashion Fashion girl, held her own runway show.
The New York scenester/actress/too soon for icon? has been designing clothes with her friends at Opening Ceremony since 2007 and if you’ve walked down a street, any street, in lower Manhattan you’ve probably seen them, but last night she got to create an entire scene. She chose a high school gym on Mulberry (appropriately enough, it’s the site of the New Designer’s Market) and set the stage with an installation from her good friend Chris Wing. “A lot of the collection plays with good and evil and dark and light and I saw them sort of shearing the white lamb which is the good lamb and they’d slayed the head of the dark lamb, like our inner conflict,” she said of the orange and black characters and their contrasting animals. “I thought it was very fitting. I liked the vibrancy of it. I wanted people to come in and have something to look at and something that would set a mood and kind of you know just, this is kind of the reckless sense of danger like something’s going to happen.”
If you’d paid attention to the CFDAs the night before, you’d have another hint of what was to come. Chloë designed herself a one off in the spirit of her resort collection. The looks, which expertly mix white eyelet and perforated black leather, had a third collaborator: Vision Streetwear. “It reminds me so much of my youth, it has the strongest sense memory, I think when a lot of people see that, kids my age or older, it’ll be really effective. I mean vision was like the biggest brand and the star skateboarders were like rockstars back in the day. It’s just so iconic,” Chloë said.
She stopped just short of bubbling enthusiasm though: “Unfortunately it’s only clothes. And not that exciting,” she said. On the latter part at least, we beg to differ.
With reunion season in full swing, Chloe Sevigny opted for a little high school nostalgia for her first-ever runway show. But instead of going back to good ol’ Darien High, she kept things Manhattan-centric by holding the event at St. Patrick’s Youth Center. Ryan McGinley, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were repping the cool crowd front row. Between the sweaty atmosphere and the ’90s-influenced threads, we were almost transported back to high school ourselves!
If there is anyone in the fashion industry who could get away with their first runway show being in an old high school gym in Nolita, it would be Chloë Sevigny and her collaboration with Opening Ceremony for Resort 2012 which debuted last night. Not a detail was missing; the show’s location was made complete with basketball hoops, blue brick walls and no air conditioning…yes you read right, no air. And let’s be honest, I was never a fan of gym class but Sevigny’s show definitely changed my mind…
The collection in true Sevigny style was a mash-up of delicate girliness meets late 80′s/early 90′s grunge packed with cut-out shoulders (love!), loads of denim and white eyelet tops, pleated mini-skirts, overalls and a dash of leopard print. And lest we forget about the shoes! Looks were paired with chunky thick heeled black boots, white sneakers, pearl studded flats, strappy heels and my personal favorite high-top Velcro sneakers…yes, velcro. Who else could make this look cool? And as if the frocks weren’t “getting-attention” enough, there was also sweats and varsity jackets made in collaboration eighties skate brand Vision Street Wear. Sevigny proved to attendees that her latest collection gave fashionistas the option to be nice or naughty and sweet or mean.
Another commendable aspect of the show was it’s diversity in casting, look and shape wise. While each model was gorgeous in her own right, they were also the kind of girls you’d totally want to be friends with; not envy. According to Style.com, “Teen dream,” was what Sevigny said of the spectacle after the show. No, make that “sexy teen dream.” And I couldn’t agree more.
The first runway show for Chloë Sevigny’s collaborative collection with Opening Ceremony walked yesterday evening in a cavernous old school gym in Nolita, complete with basketball hoops and metal fans rattling near the ceiling. Fittingly, there was no air conditioning, rendering the whole crowd sweaty and red-faced like some kind of fashion gym class. “I wanted you to come in and be transported back to the way you felt when you were a teenager,” explained Sevigny after the show, fanning herself with a press release. “Even little tiny things — the cinder blocks, the color blue of the walls. Anything that would trigger the senses to that time when you’re questioning everything.”
The collection itself was a nineties-inspired mash-up of white eyelet pinafore tops with ruffly shoulders, cropped bustiers, and laser-cut black leather shaped into girlish baby-doll dresses with pleated miniskirts. Several pieces were made in collaboration with the skateboard lifestyle brand Vision Street Wear, including logo-printed cropped tanks and high-top Velcro sneakers. There were also some chunky-heeled shoes studded with teardrop pearls and fastened with slender ankle straps. “The pearl is something I’d seen on a shoe years ago,” Sevigny explained. “I just wanted to do an updated Belle de Jour sort of thing that could be worn kind of punky or alternative, and look elegant … I also wanted it to be a lot about early nineties, like Helmut Lang and strappy.”
The model casting was noticeably diverse as well. “I wanted to do young and old and different kind of body shapes,” said Sevigny. “A girl you could see hanging out in Tompkins Square Park, or your friend, or your friend’s pretty friend. I wanted to look like they could all be hanging out together. I didn’t want unattainable beauty.”
Leather and lace are old pals. But leather that’s lace? There’s a naughty new friend. It figured prominently in Chloë Sevigny’s latest collection for Opening Ceremony, which she showed for the first time ever in a runway presentation that attracted pals Ryan McGinley and Proenza Schouler’s Jack and Lazaro, plus many dozens more in the standing section. “Teen dream,” she said of the spectacle after the show. No, make that “sexy teen dream.”
Some dream of angels; some dream of devils. Sevigny provided both. Her flouncy minidresses were mostly variations on the white cotton eyelet frocks that pure-of-heart maidens might wear. Some were in white cotton; some in black leather. “It’s the good and the bad, the light and the dark,” Sevigny explained. “If you want to wear this in white, you can have your angelic moment. And if you want to go dark…” She herself was wearing the black leather, which perhaps suggests where she falls on that particular ecclesiastical divide. (That she showed it in the gym of a parish youth center, well — bless!)
The leather dresses—and skirts, incorporating corseting details — had an eighties-style bite, saved from retro-ism by oversize bibs of laser-cut leather lace, and more lace still snaking over shoulders and around arms. Skin (or sin?) is in—and she doesn’t shy away from it. But will every girl look as good in black leather bloomer shorts as she does?
Maybe not. But Sevigny, to her credit, offers a wider wardrobe than first glance would indicate. Those frocks will get the attention, but there were sweats and varsity jackets, too, made in collaboration with the eighties skate brand Vision Street Wear. (They were an homage of sorts of her brother, Paul, and his days as a Vision-clad skater.) The shoes: platform sneaks, pearl-studded flats, strappy heels. And approachable denim came in several forms, from a mini romper with leather insets to skintight, paneled jeans. It all gelled for a complete picture of the world according to Chloë. Between heaven and hell, after all, there’s her stomping ground and inspiration well: the street.
… and Vogue.com (which also has a couple of pictures from the fitting).
“I don’t really play by rules,” says Chloë Sevigny of her maverick approach to designing her line for Opening Ceremony. “I basically make whatever my friends and I want to wear; it’s completely selfish!” So it’s no surprise, then, that neither neoprene nor sequins (which we’ve started to see everywhere else) are to be found in this Chinatown studio; rather, it’s an alternative way of dressing that is exactly what a typical Sevigny acolyte is aiming for, anyway. From the look of the bib-front blouses, bodice tops, and monochromatic printed cycling shorts featuring in this, her fourth collection, that eclectic ideal lies somewhere between eighteenth-century lingerie and vamped-up skaterwear.
“I was fascinated by the undergarments,” she said of the “Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915” exhibition she saw at the Los Angeles Contemporary Museum of Art earlier this year, which inspired the frilled-lace hems on shirts, laser-cut leather eyelet minidresses, and corsetry details on her inaugural swimwear offering. “I merged those elements with a collaboration with Vision Street Wear. Their skaters were rock stars when I was growing up, so I thought, Why not do something together?”
Why not, indeed? Somewhere between working on the final season of Big Love and her recent grueling gym schedule (in preparation for her upcoming role as an assassin for a as yet unnamed Sky Atlantic miniseries), the multitasking actress/designer pulled together her debut runway show, too, where she had the final word on everything from casting the models to picking the sound track. The overall effect is charmingly Sevigny: unconventionally chic with a surprising wearability. After all, who else could make eighteenth-century skater punk work for her downtown devotees?
Finally, a quick preview of the collection straight from the runway:
So, any thoughts on the collection? Excited? Disappointed?
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